April 19, 2018

Modeling Sneaker Waves

Have you ever been standing on the beach and out of nowhere, a wave rushes up and knocks you down (or wets your stuff), even if you were standing far back from the water line? You might have met up with what some call “sneaker” waves. These “run-ups of unusual size” can pull unsuspecting beachgoers into the water and even cause fatalities.

A recent study examined how a phenomenon called bore-bore capture (when two or more breaking waves in the surf zone combine into one powerful wave rolling onshore) can lead to extreme wave run-up events. Study researchers developed a mathematical model to simulate the typical behavior of waves on a gently sloping beach. Using this model, they found that when two or more bores (the water rushing up after the wave breaks) merge, the combination can create a wave run-up that could be more than 50 percent larger than the sum of the run-ups that would have been caused by each of the individual waves. Read more about the study here and see a video of a “sneaker wave” on the Oregon coast. - Beth Sciaudone, DTC Civil Water Resources & Environmental Instructor


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